A coat of Alclad Gloss Black primer will give a model a proper base for a shiny finish.
This was followed by Alclad White Aluminum.
I did shading with Alclad Magnesium and using a post-it note as a masking guide. While the effect turned out to be really great, I felt it was too exaggerate.
The effect was then toned down by another thin coat of White Aluminum and I think I got it just right – as the real aircraft was just plain aluminum, giving it some shading, I added a bit of interest to the plain surfaces without making things up.
Hey everybody! Still remember photos of a [SARCASM] stellar [/SARCASM] fit of wings to the fuselage on this build? If not, click HERE. Well here I am at the moment – the model in primer. A few touch-ups will be required so if all goes according to plan, she’ll get a nice even coat of Alclad Gloss Black base and metallic finish sometime later this week. I have to admit, I was struggling with putties in the past – they crumbled, sanding was messy, especially in some tight corner and all in all they were quite a horrifying experience. Well, I have to say, I have found a new one and it blew me away with its quality and ease of work.
The product is called Perfect Plastic Putty by Deluxe Materials. It is a water based putty of a similar thickness as Tamiya’s white putty. But the real game changer is that it is water based. In practice this means, that you apply it over the seam, wait half an hour or so to fully dry, then gently rub the seam with damp brush and you will remove excess putty with ease and any residue can be later removed by damp cloth. I will probably make a product review with a video in the near future, to show you how easy it is to use. Oh and yeah, if you let it cure it will sand very nicely as well.
Last time, I was talking about experience required when building short-run kits. Today I’ve decided to show you the hurdles that await me with this kit.
The join between fuselage and vertical stabilizer is rather poor – unfortunately this photo doesn’t show it at its worst, but there’s a gaping hole there at the back of the join. Careful puttying and sanding is needed there to blend the spine extension into the stabilizer.
Dry fitting is of the utmost importance with these kits. As you can see, wing insert is way too thick to fit nicely into the main wing, while there are large gaps of varying width present all over the join line. Major sanding will be required followed by puttying and sanding.
Dry fitting wing to the fuselage also showed gaps all along the seam line. Another area that will have to be taken care of.
Luckily, the fuselage halves went together rather nicely, but I guess this is where it stops. Dryfit of the clear parts showed that the canopy doesn’t fit at all and will have to be posed open. In the meantime, Flanker is progressing nicely so there might be slight delay with the Analog build.
MiG-21I Analog, was an experimental project to test the aerodynamic properties of the wings for the Soviet supersonic airliner Tu-144. Two prototypes were built, based on MiG-21S version but with a more powerful R13-300 engine. Flight testing began in 1968 and continued into 1970 when the first prototype was lost. The second prototype, which will be the subject of this build, was retired to Monino aeronautical museum, where it still resides, alongside the Tu-144 supersonic airliner.
When I first visited Monino in 2007 I was not aware of this Fishbed variant. Yet standing there in the shadows of the big Tu-144, it caught my eye. Needless to say, when I saw Modelsvit released this variant and with my recent interest in Soviet era prototypes, buying this kit was a must. Having previously build Modelsvit’s Su-7B, one of the best if not the best short-run kit I’ve build so far, expectations were fairly high. Unfortunately, upon opening the box, MiG-21I kit is not made to the same level as their Fitter kits. Soft details, flash, big chunky parts and wobbly panel lines promise another build using hammer and sickle instead of more traditional modelling tools.
Cockpit details are raised but barely noticeable. Using some drybrushing and picking instruments and certain buttons out with different colours at least made the small pit a bit more interesting. Ejection seat is made of 7 parts and when you try to insert it into the cockpit tub, you realise it is too wide. I scraped some plastic off the side panels to get it in and added some seatbelts using thin stripes of Tamiya masking tape.
Side panels feature slightly more pronounced details compared to the other cockpit details. However when you finish the tub and try to insert it, you will notice that it doesn’t fit. Why, you might ask? Because these side panels are about 2-3mm too long and the instrument panel doesn’t fit in. Cutting off the panels slice by slice and dryfitting eventually solved the problem.
Eventually everything dropped in with a little luck or use of sheer force 😀 As I write this, fuselage halves were already glued together and I am dryfitting the wings and trying to mentally solve this upcoming problem.