Archive for March, 2013


28th March 2013

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It’s been quite a while since my last post here. Basically because there’s not much to show really. CRJ project has stopped – why you might ask? Because I am quite disappointed with the kit. No wheel wells and solid back ends of the jet exhausts are the main reasons. And I am really not in a mood to cut the circular shapes of the wells out of thick resin. Gears closed and on the stand is how she’s gonna look at the end. But have to find some motivation to clean up the engines first and do something about their back ends… Probably I’ll just hollow the exhausts and try to paint a thin black strip around casing. Huey is in the stages of puttying and sanding, which I really loath. Yet work has to be done and I hope I will be able to make a separate WiP post next week with some proper progress done on that model. Not so long ago I also started working on Su-7BM and I must admit it’s the best short-run model I was building so far. The fit is great to average (it’s a short-run nonethless but nothing tragic) and the level of details is simply amazing. I’ve further improved the cockpit and photos will be published in Scale Aircraft Modelling magazine. The fuselage has been assembled and cleaned and it’s now time to clean the wing and tail to fuselage joins. Can’t wait for their Su-7BMK and hopefully BKL versions as well.

Till the next time

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UH-1H Part 3

I guess you’ve all come to a point where real life prevents any kind of free time. Well it happened to me last week as I had to work 6 12-hour shifts in a row and I only had feeling I was coming home to eat and sleep. Well things are now stabilized and some more work shall be done in the near future. Also work has started on Su-7BM but more on that some other time.

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Unfortunately the kit is showing its age and though Huey’s are quite simple machines, this kit ain’t. Dryfitting the clear parts showed a number of discrepancies including the front hole on the left fuselage being too big. Sheet styrene was glued to the attachment points and trimmed to shape to remedy this.

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With all the clear parts glued using White glue (it dries clear), all the parts were masked using my favorite Tamiya masking tape. Oh and don’t forget adding some lead weights to the front of cabin compartment when gluing the halves together.

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And the fuselage halves have finally been closed. The fit is far from great but I tried to align the parts so that the majority of the clean up will be happening on the bare lower fuselage. Also some riveting on the boom has started as you can see. I plan to replace raised panel lines with rivet lines, but more on that when I clean the seams.

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Photo copyright: Dragan Cvetić

Here she is finished. Not a lot of problems encountered during this build – you can see in progress photos, by selecting WIP up from the menu.

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And at the end comparison between the first Soviet boomer and the latest Russian one – quite a difference, ain’t it? 😉

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And here’s the trailer for the movie K-19: Widowmaker that vaguely represents what happened on that tragic 1961 voyage starring Harisson Ford and Liam Neeson.

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Model was first smeared with White and Payne’s Gray artist’s oil colours.

 

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Later the oily mess was wiped away – first with paper tissue and then followed by straking an old paintbrush down the hull.

 

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Letting the paint dry further a bit, random streaks of Burnt Sienna were added to simulate light rusting.

 

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White was also used for lightening the deck colour and provide for some discolouration.

UH-1H Part 2

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Using drybrush technique, detailing instrument panels is easy as long as they have some raised details. Just dip a flat paintbrush in white colour, then wipe it on a clean piece of paper tissue until it stops leaving paint marks and slightly brush the raised panels. Same way you can simulate tear and wear using other colours on various parts and also prnonounce the highlights on object edges while the wash emphisazes the shadows.

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Some wiring was added to the back of the control panel that can be seen from the forward lower windows using 0.3mm soldering wire and 0.18mm copper wire

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Using Tamiya masking tape, cut in thin strips and aluminium foil for buckles, all the seating positions were equipped with seatbelts. Dark wash further enhances the looks.

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And the cabin with cockpit is finished. Combination of drybrushing, washes, wiring and scratcbuilt armor seats make a lively working space.

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Unfortunately when the fuselage halves are closed, little can be seen of the work done.

 

And last but not least, a song that kept me motivated today while modelling 😉

Browsing through the net you will most likely find most of this sub models painted in classic black hull with dark red bottom, but I’ve decided to paint her in her early scheme, probably also the one she wear during the 1961 tragedy.

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Image source: http://the60sat50.blogspot.com/2011/07/tuesday-july-4-1961-k-19-nuclear.html

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Model was sprayed with Aclad Grey Primer first and as I found it to be quite a nice colour for the upper hull I masked it off and sprayed Revell 37 ‘Reddish Brown’ for the lower hull. Top deck was painted with Revell 9 Anthrazite

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Further the sub was given 3 coats of Alclad Aqua Gloss to achieve nice even surface for decalling, which went on mostly without much problems. Only the silver decals for the sonar? were giving me a bit of a problem – I had to cut the upper one in half to get a better angle and then trim it.

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With a dryfitted conning tower she almost looks the part already. But not yet – the most important steps is yet to follow – the weathering that should make it more life-like and less toy-like.

Oil-dot weathering

Recently I’ve read quite a lot about this weathering technique and I said I wanted to try it myself. There’s a few different approaches and here’s my way of doing it. I don’t say it’s the correct one – only that it is the easiest and most effective.

Test subject was Hasegawa 1:72 F-4D Phantom II in Iranian markings. I suspect desert camouflages are prone to some fading and the paint fading so it was a perfect test model to try the technique out.

First we need a good coat of acrylic gloss varnish on the model to protect the underlaying paint. You will need a few basic colours – luckily oil paints are not expencive and since you will be using only small amounts of them, they will last for years!

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First step is to apply a number of little oil dots over the model of different colours – I tend to use darker tones on light coloured base and vice versa. Remember to work a piece at the time – wings separate, fuselage separate and so on.

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Next step is to blend the colours together. I use an old paintbrush for this step – when the paints are well blended, I start removing them, first by paper tissue to remove the majority of paint.

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Next step is fine removal by paintbrush – it takes some time and if the result doesn’t show, damp your paintbrush with white spirit a bit and repeatedly clean it to remove the paint.

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The end result is nicely faded paintjob and what I like the most – finely visible panel lines and rivets. I hate to see great looking models ruined by poor application of panel wash, especially if they use black for it. Here, due to the blending of different shades, you’ll get nice looking panel lines, that will show on lighter and darker patches of camouflage. Also the camouflage colours will be blended together and decals faded – look at the difference between wing and fuselage roundel in the last photo. Always remember to work front to back on the wings, simulating the airflow and top to bottom on the sides, simulating the rain streaks.

When I’m done with weathering, I leave the model to dry overnight and the next day correct any possible blemishes or add additional streaking. I usually then leave the model to dry for a couple more days before coating it with appopriate varnish.

Finished results:

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